WHesterN Hemisphere
Annette Hester's Blog
As a travel writer - from the Calgary Herald's pages
Summary:This article was published today. It is from my wonderful trip to Italy, earlier this year. Staying at Daphne’s like visiting old friends Small inn matches large hotels with custom service
When I decided, at the suggestion of a friend, to stay at
Rome's Daphne Inn, little did I know the experience would be much
like a tailor measuring me for a designer suit. It couldn't have
been a more perfect fit.
When it comes to personal service, my friend said,
"they are impressive," which matched what the international travel
media have been saying about the Daphne's high level of custom
service.
My first e-mail inquiry to the Daphne was the beginning of a long dialogue. First the owners wanted to know what accommodations would be most suitable for me because the Daphne Inn consists of two properties around Piazza Barberini. One doesn't have elevators and some of the rooms are too small for two people. They were forthcoming about the amenities (no TV, but easily accessible computers and wireless Internet connection), and they made sure I understood the strict cancellation policy.
I asked if I could have a room with a balcony and a view, they responded they didn't have one, but kindly sent me links to other hotels that did. Then I quickly found out what such luxury would cost: about double the Daphne's rate of around $300 a night.
There was no question and I booked my "custom-fit" room at the Daphne. And the e-mails kept coming. "Now that you are going to stay with us, how can we help you organize your visit? Tell us about what you would like to see, how busy you like being, and if you are partial to organized tours. Once we have this info, we will design a custom itinerary for you."
We developed a tentative schedule, which
included a private tour of Rome with one of the Daphne's own staff,
as well as some walking tours, provided by Icon Tours, which
specializes in small groups and uses scholars and journalists as
guides.
I arrived at the Daphne in the early afternoon and got settled, then I set off with Steve, an Australian-Italian art aficionado and one of Daphne's long time staff, on a three-hour walking tour of central Rome. The tour was the best spent $80 of the entire trip. Steve expertly navigated the tangle of wide thoroughfares and tiny backstreets, showing me all the architectural sights, and unforgettable views, as well as what he claimed was the best ice cream shop in Rome - San Crispino, where honey gelato reigns supreme.
From there we wended our way by the Fontana di Trevi, the Pantheon, Piazza
Navona, Campo de Fiori, around to Piazza Venezia, and as we did, he pointed out his favourite eating spots: El Sostegno for eggplant parmigiana and garbanzo beans with olive oil and hot peppers (not on the menu but available on request), Armando for traditional Roman cuisine, Colline Emiliane, a Michelin award winner for the veal and traditional boiled meats, and Gina at the Spanish Steps, wherethe who's who of Rome lunch.
He showed me the best coffee bar in town - Bar
San Eustachio by the Pantheon - and finally, where to enjoy an
aperitif at the end of the day - Bar Della Pace. We slowly made our
way back to the hotel through Monti, the most charming of Rome's
neighbourhoods.
From the Daphne, I was close to all attractions by foot, bus or metro. I quickly discovered that sightseeing was best enjoyed in the early morning when the streets were quiet, and the only sounds and sights were of scrubbing brushes, sweeping brooms, and water splashing around as cleaners readied Rome for the throngs of daily tourists. And when it came to the best time to visit museums, churches and neighbourhoods, the Daphne's expert guidance, I had time to explore in relative quietness - something of a rarity in crowded Italy. Even the two tours I took with Icon Tours - the Vatican and Ancient Rome took place at odd hours so as to avoid the largest crowds. All this attention to detail was wonderful because it left me plenty of time to shop.
From the minute I arrived I wanted to shop as Romans do, at the hip, out of the way boutiques. But I didn't have the slightest idea of where to go. The ladies at the Daphne, helpful though they were, tended more to my daughter's style and budget than mine. Luckily, the wife of a colleague took me under her wing. Paola introduced me to her favourite shops in Testaccio, Monti, and behind the Spanish Steps, which included clothing and, best ofall, where to find great shoes.
For me, Italy and shoes are one and the same. When I wasn't checking out the sights, I was staring at everyone's feet, and I was determined to return home with a pair of the latest in Italian footwear. After a day or two, I knew what I wanted: a pair of flat knee high black boots, the kind every stylish Italian woman sported, with jeans, with skirts, even with dresses. I searched everywhere but after five days, with my vacation coming to an end, I had all but given up on finding my dream boots.
But Paola was optimistic. "Try Smalto in Via Urbana in Monti. They have the most unusual selection." I walked out of Smalto with the perfect boots for $300.
Boots weren't the only thing on my agenda; so was
finding the best gelato. Everyone I asked had their favourite
place, and I tried them all. But after a week of tasting I'd had
enough, and I was convinced that Steve was right: San Crispino was,
indeed, the best.
On my last night, I decided to say goodbye with a special dinner at another of the Daphne's recommendations: Uno e Bino - a little gem tucked away in the university district of San Lorenzo. As it turned out, this unpretentious place, with simple wooden tables in two small rooms, offered the most exquisite contemporary Italian cuisine I had tried on this trip. I started with a sensational house wine and tasty bread, baked in-house, served warm and fresh. From there, Gloria, one of the owners, helped me choose a mackerel appetizer and a main dish of cod and crunchy asparagus. Every single bite was an explosion of amazing flavours. The combination of taste and texture was unique and delicious.
By the time I finished the main course, I couldn't imagine eating one more bite. But Gloria insisted I have a dessert. I begged off, too full, with no one to share. "Well then, I will serve you something as a treat on the house," she said. It was a little shot glass filled with Uno e Bino's own ‘pistachio di Bronte' gelato.
I had sworn I wouldn't try any more gelato, but I couldn't refuse this. I took a tentative bite, expecting to find it adequate, at best. To my amazement, it was unquestionably, the most delectable gelato I have ever tasted - a sublime mixture of salt and sweet, creamy and crunchy - divine ambrosia. Kind of like my whole time in Rome.
When it comes to personal service, my friend said,
"they are impressive," which matched what the international travel
media have been saying about the Daphne's high level of custom
service.
My first e-mail inquiry to the Daphne was the beginning of a long dialogue. First the owners wanted to know what accommodations would be most suitable for me because the Daphne Inn consists of two properties around Piazza Barberini. One doesn't have elevators and some of the rooms are too small for two people. They were forthcoming about the amenities (no TV, but easily accessible computers and wireless Internet connection), and they made sure I understood the strict cancellation policy.
I asked if I could have a room with a balcony and a view, they responded they didn't have one, but kindly sent me links to other hotels that did. Then I quickly found out what such luxury would cost: about double the Daphne's rate of around $300 a night.
There was no question and I booked my "custom-fit" room at the Daphne. And the e-mails kept coming. "Now that you are going to stay with us, how can we help you organize your visit? Tell us about what you would like to see, how busy you like being, and if you are partial to organized tours. Once we have this info, we will design a custom itinerary for you."
We developed a tentative schedule, which
included a private tour of Rome with one of the Daphne's own staff,
as well as some walking tours, provided by Icon Tours, which
specializes in small groups and uses scholars and journalists as
guides.
I arrived at the Daphne in the early afternoon and got settled, then I set off with Steve, an Australian-Italian art aficionado and one of Daphne's long time staff, on a three-hour walking tour of central Rome. The tour was the best spent $80 of the entire trip. Steve expertly navigated the tangle of wide thoroughfares and tiny backstreets, showing me all the architectural sights, and unforgettable views, as well as what he claimed was the best ice cream shop in Rome - San Crispino, where honey gelato reigns supreme.
From there we wended our way by the Fontana di Trevi, the Pantheon, Piazza
Navona, Campo de Fiori, around to Piazza Venezia, and as we did, he pointed out his favourite eating spots: El Sostegno for eggplant parmigiana and garbanzo beans with olive oil and hot peppers (not on the menu but available on request), Armando for traditional Roman cuisine, Colline Emiliane, a Michelin award winner for the veal and traditional boiled meats, and Gina at the Spanish Steps, wherethe who's who of Rome lunch.
He showed me the best coffee bar in town - Bar
San Eustachio by the Pantheon - and finally, where to enjoy an
aperitif at the end of the day - Bar Della Pace. We slowly made our
way back to the hotel through Monti, the most charming of Rome's
neighbourhoods.
From the Daphne, I was close to all attractions by foot, bus or metro. I quickly discovered that sightseeing was best enjoyed in the early morning when the streets were quiet, and the only sounds and sights were of scrubbing brushes, sweeping brooms, and water splashing around as cleaners readied Rome for the throngs of daily tourists. And when it came to the best time to visit museums, churches and neighbourhoods, the Daphne's expert guidance, I had time to explore in relative quietness - something of a rarity in crowded Italy. Even the two tours I took with Icon Tours - the Vatican and Ancient Rome took place at odd hours so as to avoid the largest crowds. All this attention to detail was wonderful because it left me plenty of time to shop.
From the minute I arrived I wanted to shop as Romans do, at the hip, out of the way boutiques. But I didn't have the slightest idea of where to go. The ladies at the Daphne, helpful though they were, tended more to my daughter's style and budget than mine. Luckily, the wife of a colleague took me under her wing. Paola introduced me to her favourite shops in Testaccio, Monti, and behind the Spanish Steps, which included clothing and, best ofall, where to find great shoes.
For me, Italy and shoes are one and the same. When I wasn't checking out the sights, I was staring at everyone's feet, and I was determined to return home with a pair of the latest in Italian footwear. After a day or two, I knew what I wanted: a pair of flat knee high black boots, the kind every stylish Italian woman sported, with jeans, with skirts, even with dresses. I searched everywhere but after five days, with my vacation coming to an end, I had all but given up on finding my dream boots.
But Paola was optimistic. "Try Smalto in Via Urbana in Monti. They have the most unusual selection." I walked out of Smalto with the perfect boots for $300.
Boots weren't the only thing on my agenda; so was
finding the best gelato. Everyone I asked had their favourite
place, and I tried them all. But after a week of tasting I'd had
enough, and I was convinced that Steve was right: San Crispino was,
indeed, the best.
On my last night, I decided to say goodbye with a special dinner at another of the Daphne's recommendations: Uno e Bino - a little gem tucked away in the university district of San Lorenzo. As it turned out, this unpretentious place, with simple wooden tables in two small rooms, offered the most exquisite contemporary Italian cuisine I had tried on this trip. I started with a sensational house wine and tasty bread, baked in-house, served warm and fresh. From there, Gloria, one of the owners, helped me choose a mackerel appetizer and a main dish of cod and crunchy asparagus. Every single bite was an explosion of amazing flavours. The combination of taste and texture was unique and delicious.
By the time I finished the main course, I couldn't imagine eating one more bite. But Gloria insisted I have a dessert. I begged off, too full, with no one to share. "Well then, I will serve you something as a treat on the house," she said. It was a little shot glass filled with Uno e Bino's own ‘pistachio di Bronte' gelato.
I had sworn I wouldn't try any more gelato, but I couldn't refuse this. I took a tentative bite, expecting to find it adequate, at best. To my amazement, it was unquestionably, the most delectable gelato I have ever tasted - a sublime mixture of salt and sweet, creamy and crunchy - divine ambrosia. Kind of like my whole time in Rome.
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